I'm very fond of clay-related goods, therefore I could not miss a visit to Grottaglie that, since the Middle Age, has been known for the production of Italian pottery and especially for its functional ceramics: large jars, pitchers, urns and pots to carry or store water, wine, oil, vinegar and food supplies.
Over the centuries, the ceramics have evolved and ornamental objects, like holy water fonts and Pumi (photo below), have been adding to the fame of Grottaglie pottery.
| Different Pumi adorning the roof of a craftsman's atelier |
Yes, the Pumi! I was very much intrigued by the rounded ceramic objects that adorned the balconies and the terraces of the houses. I noticed that they were invariably placed in pairs at both ends of every balcony, no matter if the house was old and shabby or newly restored, simply built or richly adorned.
I learned from a craftsman that a pumo was a popular symbol of good luck in Grottaglie and more in general in the region of Puglia. Every family celebration and important event was sanctified by the gift of a ceramic pumo, rigorously handmade. They were on sale in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours. I brought home a small one that I placed in my living room as a decorative accent piece ... We all need good luck, don't we?
I was interested in walking in a wood. Before leaving Lisbon and when I was searching every detail about Puglia, I learned that there was a nature reserve not far from my 'headquarter'. So, one day I walked for several hours in it, always guided by a friendly dog that at the end seemed to be more tired than me.
The area was good to walk around, and the various trails were clearly marked, so there was no risk of being lost. For a while, I had the feel I was in Portugal as I saw a strawberry tree, the fruit of which we use to make a sort of brandy. Perhaps I was not on a lucky day... I had no idea where the birds were hidden, probably playing attending a summit meeting... I presume the end of Summer had brought the low season to the Reserve...
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