GUESTBOOK

Showing posts with label sintra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sintra. Show all posts

Saturday, September 10, 2011

THE COUNTESS'S CHALET AND PARK - SLIDE-SHOW

Yesterday, when I opened my bedroom’s window and saw the dense fog descending over the bridge, I was very upset. My day’s schedule was going to be totally damaged, I thought. However, by noon, the sky had cleared up and the sun was shining strongly. One hot day, again. Great! My decision of having lunch in the park that surrounds the partially renovated Countess Edla’s chalet would be perfect.
Early in the afternoon, I reached Sintra town and could find my destination up on the hill, thanks to the huge stones seen here and there. Glad to have chosen the right path, through cool shadows alternated with the rays of hot sun. When I parked the car, it was really hot but soon I chilled out by walking under the shade of the trees.
After laying a big stone – geologists call it nefeline syenite - for lunch that tasted particularly good, feeling a soft breeze, breathing the scents of nature, I went for a long walk through the park.
The goats didn’t seem to like my camera, the horse, either. I waited for several minutes until he might move further from the electric wire fence but he never co-operated with me. I didn’t get into the Chalet. The restoration works of its interior are not yet concluded.
The Chalet, was originally built (1868) by a Portuguese king for his lover, the Countess of Edla, a famous Swiss-German opera singer, who later became the king’s official wife. It is a building in Romantic style, made of stone and lime, but with simulated wood exterior walls decorated with cork tracery. The Chalet looks like it was designed for a Disney movie!
I left the park, thinking how that Countess’s life would make a good movie or perhaps… opera.
It was not late, yet, and from there I drove to Regaleira Palace for tea… a magical place that is full of masonry symbolism, from the entrance to everything outside and inside it....
The day ended with a gorgeous sunset and now I am enjoying a beautiful moonlight over the river.
Have a nice weekend!

Thursday, August 04, 2011

A ROMANTIC ENSEMBLE - THE SECOND AND FINAL SLIDE-SHOW

After the stroll in the Park and a bit of rest at the tea-house I stepped into the Palace. This was built in 1790 over the ruins of an old chapel and a few years later the English writer William Beckford rented the whole park and palace. Beckford did not live in it for a long time. He left Portugal and the property was abandoned. Many years passed since then until 1856, when Sir Francis Cook ordered the reconstruction of the Palace, in a romantic style, with gothic, Indian and Arab motifs.
The whole Palace is not yet open to the public but I could visit all the areas, whose restoration work has been recently concluded. The entrance hall with its Gothic arches and pink marble columns, the corridor, a succession of arches and columns, providing a sensation of depth, the octagonal-shaped main hall with Indian alabaster panels (Mogul style) used as screens and with a fountain in alabaster, as well, the Music Room with its dome in decorative plaster work, the stairwell - a marble structure decorated with an ivy leaved pattern - and its huge dragonfly, the library with the walls entirely covered by walnut bookshelves - the door, also in walnut and decorated in bas-relief representing Diana, the Roman goddess, all were beautiful! 
The sun was about to set when I left Monserrate, not feeling like walking back to the railway station. Fortunately, there was a shuttle bus that drove me to the center of Sintra. I was thirsty and was wandering around the historic center, looking for a non-tourist trap bar (easier said than found) when I stumbled upon the hidden gem A Raposa (The Fox), a tea-house/restaurant. I went in for tea and immediately fell in love with the decor... it was different and cozy. My outing had had a happy end!

Monday, August 01, 2011

A ROMANTIC ENSEMBLE # 1 - THE PARK (SLIDE-SHOW)

I admit I have a penchant for romanticism in Sintra. It’s easy to like Sintra, a small town I visit from time to time. It was hot but Sintra with its lush vegetation always makes me feel not only refreshed but also like I am staying (nearly) alone in nature. It’s particularly easy to become overwhelmed at the Monserrate Park and Palace ensemble, where I didn't remember to have ever been before. After a one-hour walk from the railway station I arrived at the Park.
Monserrate is one of the most romantic sights in the region of Lisbon, a Victorian mansion situated in a botanical garden of exotic trees and tropical plants. The gardens were landscaped in the 18th century by a wealthy Englishman William Beckford, writer of the Gothic novel Vathek, between 1793 and 1799 when he rented Monserrate. Around half a century later, another wealthy Englishman Sir Francis Cook bought the place and built the magnificent Victorian mansion inspired by Brighton Pavilion of Nash. Cook also transformed the gardens with a large sweeping lawn, camellias and sub-tropical trees from all over the world. Today Monserrate is one of Europe’s most richly reserved gardens and impresses its visitors with its romantic charm.
At the entrance, the gate is topped by a pair of  two mythological creatures providing an introduction to the fantastic beyond the gate. I started walking through the gardens, resisting to the temptation of going straight to the Palace. Passed by the Indian Arch, acquired in India by Sir. Francis Cook, and then walked to the relaxing cascade Beckford ... and stopped to admire the scenery. Here, were joined talents and ability to dream...
I followed the path downhill, to the Ferns and the Garden of Japan, and enjoyed the idea and outcome of creating a fake ruin of the chapel. When I was approaching the Garden of Mexico I was faced with a lawn hill - the first planted in Portugal, notable for its size and unusual cambered surface that required an imaginative irrigation system -  with fantastic places to lay a towel and sunbathe. Unfortunately, I hadn't any towel with me. On the top of the hill I saw the Palace. I climbed the hill to the Palace and I reached the highest point of the visit.  I walked around to admire its exterior. Until  recently this was the only option as it had been closed for restoration works. Splendid! One has to pay homage to those who built it and rebuild it as the summer house of Francis Cook. 
I decided not to enter, without firstly having rest at the tea house, where I could refill my batteries...
Hope you enjoy the walk in the Park...